Fournier Metal Work Questions & Answers

* I have a question about 2024-T3 aluminum (.063 alclad) minimum bend radius. My manuals show many different recommendations like 3 to 5 times thickness for minimum bend radius. I would like to know: what is a good number to use that will not cause cracks or weakness in a 90° bend? I was going to use the 3 times thickness recommendation (or about 3/16" radius) to keep things tight. Will this be okay? This appears to be the radius on the parts I am replacing. Also, will standard box and pan brakes be able to give a different bend radius?

Your reference materials sound trustworthy, and we agree with their general recommendations. Just keep in mind that if a tight bend is what you are trying to achieve, then the materials you are using are not the best choice. We prefer to use 3003 H-14 .063 aluminum for practically everything - from fuel tanks to body work. And yes, a good brake has an adjustment that will allow you to "back-up" the top clamping jaw enough to produce different radii.

* I am building an English wheel and I'm having trouble locating the material for the anvils. I have a supplier who is offering 4142 cold drawn (3" dia. x 24" long) for the small anvils and 4142 hot rolled (9" dia. x 3" long) for the large top wheel. My question is: are these acceptable substitutes for 4130 / 4330? If not, can you suggest a supplier who carries the right material?

You can use 4142 cold drawn 3" dia. material. In fact, anything that is in the '41' family will be fine as long as it is "cold drawn" material. The 9" dia. material is not suitable due to the fact that it is "hot rolled". This is too soft and you will be very disappointed with the results. Most steel suppliers in the metro-Detroit area carry this type of material.

* In your video, Blocking and Smoothing, the top wheel and lower anvils of your English wheel have a mirror-like finish on them. I would like to know how you achieve this finish and how to maintain it.

We polish our wheels with a "D.A." sander. It's best to start with a 350 grit paper and then work your way to 800 or 1,000 grit for a beautiful final shine. It's a good idea to use a light oil, like WD-40, to protect the wheels from corrosion.

* I am building a new work table for my shop and want to be sure it is well-built and will endure for many years. In one of your books you recommend a minimum of ½" thick steel plate for the table top. Do you think it would be a good idea to upgrade to ¾" or 1" thick steel plate instead? The table is 4' x 8' and the upgrade would not be cheap, but I want to do the right thing. What do you think?

I think you're smart to think through the idea in the first place! ¾" thick steel plate would be a great upgrade, if you can afford it. There really isn't that much more "value added" by going to the 1" plate. Instead I would strongly recommend you spend the money on having the surface of the table blanchard ground so it will be a nice, true, surface while working.

* Your description of the DHC 2000 Torch (formerly Henrob 2000) indicates that a 2-stage regulator is required. Do you think that it is absolutely essential? The manufacturer's website doesn't say anything about this and I wonder if the torch is problematic when used in conjunction with a single stage regulator setup. What sort of issues have you experienced using a single stage setup with this torch?

A two-stage regulator is not absolutely necessary, but if you plan to weld sheet aluminum, we highly recommend it.

This recommendation is not due to using a DHC 2000 torch per se, but rather has to do with the fact that gas-welding aluminum requires the use of very low line pressure ( 2 - 4 p.s.i.). Precise pressure control is required during gas-welding aluminum. If a regulator fluctuates just 4 or 5%, this makes a very large difference in the flame's mixture. Fluxuating line pressure can result in poor flame control and / or an erratic flame - neither of which are good.

A two-stage regulator is much more stable than a single-stage unit. If you are using higher line pressures on steel ( 10 -15 p.s.i.), that same 4 or 5% variance will have very little effect on your flame setting. For gas-welding aluminum, we suggest using a 2-stage regulator on the oxygen side and a single stage regulator on the acetylene side. The 2-stage is more important on the oxygen because oxygen bottles are higher pressure than fuel.

Cobra (the company currently manufacturing the DHC 2000 torch) has introduced an affordable line of low-pressure regulators. We also like the fact that they are nice quality and are made in the USA, like the torch. Additionally, they have the benefit of being designed for the DHC 2000 torch. Look for the Cobra model # W5100-130 oxygen (0 - 30 p.s.i.) and the # W5100-140 acetylene (0 - 15 p.s.i.)

After the investment in that awesome torch - and of course your practice time spent fine-tuning your gas-welding skills, you owe it to yourself to invest in the proper regulators!

* I am going to be buying an oxyacetylene set up. Is there a particular brand you recommend? I will be using the equipment for automobile repair and metalwork. I understand that you prefer oxyacetylene for welding aluminum. Why is this so?

MIG welding is a very good way to do "patch panel" work, but it is not as versatile as a gas-welding set up. If you are looking for a set you can learn with and be able to do a very wide variety of things, oxyacetylene is the way to go. We prefer to gas-weld aluminum because it doesn't work harden the weld area. One of the many benefits of this process is that the area surrounding the weld gets annealed by the relatively slow heat up / cool down process. Gas-welding can be an effective way of joining steel body work. As with any other technique, this skill is acquired by practice, and you must be willing to invest some time practicing this method.

As far as the brand of torch, we highly recommend the Victor as it is a national standard and parts will surely be available if needed. For a general overview of welding practices and applications, check out the book "Welder's Handbook" by Richard Finch.

* I am trying to find Greenlee knockout hole punches. Do you know who carries them?

As a matter of fact we do! One of our favorite suppliers, Irvan-Smith Inc., carries this handy race and custom car tool. Follow this link to the page on their website that details the specialized punch options they offer: Greenlee Punches

* I am trying to repair a damaged '36 Dodge hood. Can an English wheel be used to repair damaged body work?

An English wheel is not a good tool for repairing damaged body work. It is basically a stretching machine, and cannot remove dents that need to be shrunk. Another problem may be fitting a large curved part into the wheel itself. Hoods made with an English wheel are made in pieces and then metal finished. Large stampings like a hood usually don't work well in a wheel.

* I am in the process of restoring a '67 Shelby built Trans-am Coupe. I have to re-form (flare) the steel fenders to cover the additional width of the wheels and tires. I have standard autobody hammers and dollies, but I am sure I will need a shot bag (size?) and maybe some slappers and mallets. I know that starting with the proper tools and knowledge will greatly increase my learning curve. Do you have tool suggestions you could offer for my situation?

Given your project and interests, here are some suggestions:

3 Forming Heads
12" Shot Bag
Wood Slapper, flat shape
Sheet Metal Handbook
Metal Shaping: Blocking and Smoothing video / DVD
Basic Techniques for Steel video
optional: Metal Shaping Station
Consider attending a Metal Fabrication Workshop

* I purchased your Metal Fabricator's Handbook and have read it from cover to cover. I don't have all the power tools you have but I do have welding capability some body hammers and dollies. I am restoring a 1934 Ford and have managed to find myself with an oil can in the left cowl side outer panel. I tried using a shrinking hammer (one that twists when it impacts the metal) both with a steel dolly and a wood dolly. So far I have not been successful in removing the oil can. I also tried some heat with a water quenching but that was unsuccessful also. I know that the metal needs to be shrunk but, so far, I have not been able figure out how to do it with hand tools. Is it possible to do with hand tools?

The heat shrinking technique should allow you to successfully shrink out the extra metal -- that is, if you are doing it properly. I have used this technique time and time again to take out "oil cans" / extra metal. The technique works best when you have a helper to work with you. By having an extra person, you can heat the spot to be shrunk and quickly hand the torch to your helper. The dime-size spot that you heat to dull orange must be tapped back into itself with a flat hammer while holding a flat dolly directly below it. Then it should be quenched with cold water immediately. Be sure the entire part is cool to the touch in between each "shrink". Do not allow the part to build up any heat.

Several of these 'shrinks' can be executed along the area or line that requires shrinking. Always do new 'shrinks', never one over another. I have found that the metal used in '30s Fords reacts very favorably to this kind of shrinking because of its thickness and low temper. You should try again, but not before a little practice. It's a good idea to practice the technique on scrap metal before working the car. Remember to hand the torch off quickly to your helper so the raised, heated spot can be struck while it's still glowing.

If you to improve the surface further, a quick way to find trouble spots (highs and lows) is to use layout die on the surface and then lightly file the surface to locate the trouble spots. Use a flat dolly and a soft face hammer to lower the high spots. Use a bullseye pick to raise the low spots. As a final step, some additional filing or sanding will further improve the surface, but be sure not to overdo this final step, as it can result in thinning of the metal. Good luck!

* I have a sheet metal shrinker/stretcher with a deep, 7" reach. When bending a curve at a 90 degree angle, what is the proper method to use when the flange to be shrunk is more than two inches wide?
When shrinking more than two inches of metal, the shrinking pattern should be in and out, rather than right to left. It is important to concentrate the shrinking process toward the outer edge of the metal. Due to the metal depth, more shrinking needs to take place at the edge.

* When making a wood buck, do you ever screw it together rather than using wood glue and nails?

Using screws to assemble a buck is an acceptable method, as long as you use plenty of attachment points. You must have enough attachment points so that the buck remains very rigid. If the buck flexes at all, the finished part will be less accurate. A common way to assemble a wooden buck with screws is to use small, 90° metal strips at the joints. This method is very effective at achieving rigidity. Using screws to assemble a buck also allows you to easily disassemble it for storage and shipping. Bucks that can be disassembled are very practical when building a part with a right and left side, such as a fender. Just reassemble the buck to fabricate the opposite side!

* I recently purchased a used shrinker/stretcher set. It has a 1" reach and is the bench mounted version. The shrinker does not work very well and I am wondering if you have suggestions on how to improve its performance.

What comes to mind first is the possibility that the shrinker jaws are either dirty or worn out. First, try cleaning them with a stiff-bristled stainless steel wire brush. After you've cleaned them, feel the serrations with your finger. They should be sharp. If they aren't, they're probably just worn out. If cleaning doesn't improve the machine's performance, you should consider buying new replacement jaws. They are moderately priced and many companies stock them. We carry replacement shrinker and stretcher jaws for $80 each.

* What alloy of aluminum should I use for a water surge tank?
A water surge tank must be made of a durable alloy. I recommend 3003 H-14 alloy, 0.050" thick. This kind of tank has internal pressure and the aluminum must be tough, yet formable. It's also important that the alloy be easy to weld. 3003 H-14 aluminum fits all these requirements, and I use it frequently.

* Does aluminum welding flux spoil easily?

We assume you are asking about flux that has been mixed with water for use. Unmixed aluminum flux powder will not spoil and has a very long shelf life, if kept clean and dry. It's important to keep the lid of the container tightly sealed. Don't reuse flux that has been contaminated by standing out in an open container. We make it a habit to discard any unused flux at the end of the work day. By the way, you must never use a metal brush with aluminum flux mixture. The flux is corrosive and will pick up some of the metal, causing an adverse chemical reaction in the mixture.

* I am looking for tips on how to build an English wheel. Some have 2" wide wheels and some have 3". Some have 10" upper wheels when others have 8" or 9". Some have the CAM adjustment to keep the same tension while changing lower wheels and some don't. Is one better than the other?

As you have already ascertained, building an English wheel is no small matter! Considering the value-added an English wheel provides a metal workshop it deserves a good deal of thought and planning. Following are a few guidelines and suggestions to consider before undertaking the project:

Frame strength is a consideration to keep in mind. Think about what type of projects you will be working on. If you will be working primarily in aluminum, frame strength is not as important as if you will be working primarily with steel. As a general rule -- the more rigid the machine is, the more efficiently it will shape metal.
In our opinion, we like a kick-wheel option for pressure adjustment (vs. a hand-operated overhead adjustment) because it allows you to keep both hands and eyes on your work.
Remember that throat size has a direct relationship to the size of parts that can subsequently be formed on the wheel. That is, a 42+ throat wheel will allow large panels to be shaped, which can be essential for shops that frequently fabricate roof panels or aircraft specialists.
Having a good selection of lower anvil wheel shapes is important. Again, as general guideline, we consider a selection of at least four varying crown anvils a necessity. Remember, a "flat" anvil wheel is not useful for shaping compound curves, but it can only be used for turning an edge or smoothing an edge that is otherwise tricky to finish nicely.
"Cam" action quick release is definitely an advantage. This feature allows you to remove your work for a quick check against a buck or other tooling and then return to the shaping operation without having to readjust your settings. It's a great time-saver.
The diameter of the upper wheel is not critical, but generally speaking, a 'larger' upper wheel is more desirable. A larger diameter upper wheel creates a larger 'contact area' on the work and will make will allow you to planish more effectively.

* I have a question regarding fuel tank construction. In your book you recommend 3003 H-14 .063 for fuel tanks, but other sources I've seen recommend 5052 .050 for this application. I'll be using a hammerform to make the ends. The total tank volume is 7 gallons and it is for a blown injected drag race application. Any input would be helpful, thanks!

As you mentioned, 5052 H-32 is often recommended for fuel tanks because of its higher tensile strength - but, it lacks formability. It is also pretty difficult to weld. 3003 H-14 is a better choice for the kind of project you are considering because it is much easier to weld and much easier to shape. In my experience, engineers tend to recommend 5052 based on the fact that it is stronger without considering other important factors. Remember, 3003 H-14 is plenty strong enough and is much more "user-friendly".

* How do I use Tipping Dies as an accessory with my Bead Roller?

1. Mark your bend line with a marker or pencil. Never scribe a bend line.
2. Set 0 (zero) die pressure. No slop, but no "pinch".
3. Roll along your bend line while applying slight upward pressure on part, upward opposite the dies.
4. Only work the bend a few degrees at a time. It will take several "passes" to achieve a near 90� bend.
5. The final step is to straighten or "tune up" you part with a hammer and dolly. If you require a 90� bend, some further hammer and dolly work will be required. Remember to use a small square to check your progress.

NOTE: Remember ~ Don't try to bend a flange that is too wide in relation to the curve it runs along, or in tightly curved areas. Use the minimum flange you can get away with.

* What is AK Steel and how do I find it?

Seems like not a day goes by that we don't receive a call or email looking for help finding seemingly elusive AK Steel!

For those of you who might not know what we're talking about, AK Steel is a steel alloy, which has been "killed" with aluminum in the molten stage to refine its grain structure; a steel alloy with good ductility.

At our shop we prefer using AK steel for high crown projects like cycle tanks and fenders because of the ease with which it shapes. It's really not that hard to source, once you find a reliable vendor - the trick is finding one who knows what you are talking about!

Our local source, following, also has many other locations throughout the US.

* Can the hand held Eckold GL2 planishing hammer be used for body work that is attached/ for instance a quarter panel on a coupe etc.?

Yes, the Eckold GL2 can be used for body work that is attached - in fact that's one of the big advantages of the tool. I thought it might be helpful for you to have the dimensions of the GL2 to better give you a perspective if it will work for your particular projects.

overall height, approx. 6-¾"
overall length, approx. 9-5/8" (with biggest die on)
overall width, approx. 2-1/3"
weight is about 4lbs., 2 oz.

So, as you can see, depending on the particular part, the GL2 can frequently fit right into the quarters in which you are working.

* Do you have used equipment for sale? Or do you know of a company that deals in used equipment?

Unfortunately, we rarely come across any used equipment for sale. However, we can recommend a local firm that deals in used metal fabrication equipment:

* I would like additional information about the Mittler Brothers bead rolls. In particular, I'm trying to determine if they will work with a bead roller I already own.

We are often asked this question, and it's a good idea to be sure before you invest in more shape rolls that they will indeed work with the bead roller you already own. Here you are:

MORE INFORMATION ABOUT MB BEAD ROLLS

It's important to keep in mind that the answer to your question is - It depends! Bear in mind the specifications listed above when making your decision, and you should be in good 'shape'!

* What do you think of wire-form bucks? What applications are they used for?

In my career, I've only used a wire-form buck twice. One was made from 1/8" rod, and the other with ¼" rod. They are convenient for situations where you have a preexisting metal structure to which you want to add another structure.

Remember any form, regardless of what it is made of, is only as good as how accurately it was made. I usually prefer to work with wood bucks, since they are what I've become accustomed to. They tend to be very accurate, and easy to make. As a general rule, you'll find that wooden bucks stand alone during metal shaping, and wire-form bucks are usually attached to an existing chassis or vehicle as an add-on.

* What kind of wood is used most often for station bucks? What thickness would you suggest for stations and buck bases?

Use a good grade of plywood for making a station buck. Each buck will have its own special requirements, based on how many parts you intend to make over the buck. The base is usually made from thicker (½" or ¾") wood and the stations are made from ¼" thick wood. Using a good grade of plywood is important because it won't splinter as easily when it is shaved or sanded to shape a station. I prefer to purchase new plywood from a supplier, rather than use whatever may be lying around the shop.

* Is there a general rule concerning grain direction on aluminum panels?

No, there is no such rule. The two types of aluminum suitable for body work, 1100 H14 and 3003 H14, are soft enough to be used in any direction. Grain direction is only a factor on hard aluminum alloys, like 6061 T4 and T6.

Since we use a lot of chipboard (a.k.a. cardstock, patternboard, etc.) in our shop, we purchase it in large quantities from a local supplier. They sell 26 point chipboard by the bundle (approx. 80 sheets) for about $54. Each sheet is 26" x 38" which is a nice, large piece to work with. Purchasing in bulk saves a few cents per sheet and ordering from a qualified source (like this one or another paper store in your area) assures that you will receive good quality chipboard.

* I am purchasing a new 24" Power Drive Bead Roller and would like your suggestions for which of the bead rolls are good, general-duty tools.

Below are six all-purpose bead roll shapes we frequently recommend to customers and workshop students. They will serve you well for a variety of projects and certainly form a great 'foundation' of shapes to have on hand in the shop:

* I am considering purchasing the Eckold GL2. My main work is restoration of muscle cars. I am often welding on lower quarter panel patches and the like. I would like to be able to planish out the tig weld. Do you think the GL2 would excel in this situation? Thank you, Dan

I have actually used the GL2 in a similar situation to the one you describe (on the 1/4 panel of a pick up truck), and it worked pretty well. It is a little cumbersome, but overall I was satisfied with the tool's performance. It's important to remember that the GL2 excels at shaping and planishing in or on a (shot) bag. Although it can be used on or at a project, it is more challenging to maintain control of the tool and the shaping process. It's a pretty powerful tool and even experienced fabricators might be surprised at it's strength. Be careful not to over stretch an area that you may be trying to planish. So, if you are going to use the GL2 on your muscle car projects it will be important to practice with the tool a bit so that you are able to maintain the air pressure while working. Overall, I think you will be pleased with the performance, as it is a great time saver.

* Where was the Dillon Mark IV / HENROB / COBRA / DHC2000 torch invented?

It was invented by Mr. Ed Dillon in Australia.

We suggest you try Burns Stainless. We've used their products in the past with great results. They carry exhaust system components such as stainless headers, merge collectors, tubing, bends, and hardware for professional racers and fabricators. You can contact them at:

* I'm just getting started working with sheet metal and I would like to know what is the best metal to use for making motorcycle gas tanks? What type of sheet metal and what type of aluminum?

Congratulations on getting started in metal work! My preference for motorcycle gas tanks is cold rolled 1020 mild steel (19 or 20 ga.). Or, if you are going to use aluminum, 3003 H14 .063 or .080. In my experience, these choices provide what I refer to as good 'formability'. They are also easier to weld than some other options.

* Do you normally quench tack welds with a damp cloth to minimize distortion to the sheet metal? And, is the procedure the same for mild steel and aluminum?

The key to being a good welder is heat control. Cooling the part with a cloth as you tack weld will greatly reduce warpage, especially on large thin gage panels (e.g. 20 gage). The cooling process works even better if you keep an air hose nearby to blow off and evaporate the water left behind after you've wiped the panel. These techniques also work on aluminum, although it is much less likely to warp in the first place. Keep in mind that the best defense against warpage is to use lots of tack welds.

* I notice you have DELRIN listed as an option for some of your bead rolls. What is it and why would someone order their rolls in that material?

The delrin material is a high molecular weight plastic that is used for bearing surfaces, because of it's self-lubricating properties, and machines as well as steel. The delrin bead rolls are are intended for thin gauge, sensitive metals that may mark easily. The most common use of delrin bead rolls is on .020" thick aluminum, brass, copper, etc. where the customer is concerned about leaving a mark on the metal (aircraft, roofing, sculptures, etc.).

Most people (about 85%) use the steel rolls, even when working on prepainted .040" aluminum - such as on race car bodies.

* Greetings from Abbotsford BC; some time ago I purchased the T711 Cobra lenses and I cleaned them with Methyl Hydrate (pure alcohol)... A very fine film of what looks like a plastic covering came off as thin if not thinner than Saran wrap. Was this a protective coating? I hope I didn't ruin them! They were badly smudged and for my glasses I often use some alcohol to clean. They seem to work fine...but... Please let me know as soon as possible. Thanks Robert

Robert, your lens is not ruined. Unfortunately though, you have removed the scratch resistant coating, so now you will need to be extra careful when using the lens. The effectiveness for welding has not been impaired; your lens will work perfectly fine, but may not look as nice. For future reference, clean your aluminum welding lens and / or glasses with a mild soap and warm water.

This is easily the number one on the hit parade of frequently asked questions! Gas-welding is perfect for non-structural components! Basically, the gas-weld keeps the welded area soft and easy to work with. Since it doesn't become hard and brittle, a gas-welded aluminum joint resists cracking and is much easier to metal finish than a heliarced joint. Heliarc is known for the hardening of the weld area. Body work that has been joined by helicarc tends to crack in the weld areas. So, oil tanks and other liquid containers are often gas-welded. Aluminum air and brake ducts and even air-cleaner housings can be gas-welded. Gas-welding is good on any aluminum component which must hold a liquid, duct air, or be metal finished at the weld area.

* The thickness of sheet steel is measured by the S.W.G. (Standard Wire Gauge). Why is aluminum measured differently? Terry Hurley, San Francisco, CA

I've wondered about that for years and have no idea why they did it that way. But, the people setting standards around 1900 decided they needed a different gauge standard for ferrous and nonferrous metals. So, since steel is ferrous (iron based) and aluminum is nonferrous (not iron based) the gauge measurements differ. For example, 20 gauge steel is one I often use. It measures .0359" thick, whereas 20 gauge aluminum is .032" thick.

We like to use the DHC2000 (formerly Henrob 2000) fitted with a special tip for leading. The tip is called an air acetylene assembly, part # A3104-364. It provides a very cool and controllable flame for working with body lead, which is an absolute must! This setup, uses only fuel, NO oxygen. The torch uses room air instead of oxygen in order to produce a nice, cool flame.

As most people are acutely aware, lead is poisonous and we try our hardest to avoid using it at all costs. If you must use it or be near someone who is using it, take every possible safety precaution. Do not breathe the vapor as it is melting or enhale the dust from sanding it!

Alternatively, you could try using a small propane torch. Remember to keep the heat very low! This is not an ideal set up, but if it's for the 'once in a while' job, you could make do.

* What filler rod should I use when oxyacetylene welding mild steel body panels? I've heard of old timers using coat hangers or "mechanic's wire" in order to achieve a nice ductile or workable weld. Do you know of an off the shelf rod I can use?

Yes, we sure do. We recommend RG-45, manufactured by J.W. Harris (Phone 800-733-4533) and it works very well for this situation. It has very low carbon which makes it "dead soft" and workable after welding.

* In many pictures of partially assembled body work, I notice a very even 2" wide burnished strip adjacent to what I assume is the welded seam. Is there a technical reason that the strip seems so uniform other than pride of workmanship?

The two inch burnished strip you have noticed is directly over a weld. This area is carefully metal finished to the point of no filler needed. Then the area is masked off for a final, one-direction sanding with fine grit paper. This process means a minimum of body finishing for the painter. So it not only shows the craftsmanship of the metal man, it is also a functional advantage.

* What is the difference between metal finishing and body finishing?

Metal finishing is the work done by the fabricator to make the metal as smooth as is humanly possible. Some of the techniques used for metal finishing are as follows:

Metal finishing is working the metal until the result is a smooth surface that requires no body filler and has not been thinned. Body finishing is the process of applying primer and paint. You must always sand the primer until it is smooth enough to be painted.

* I would like to take the advice from Ron's booklet, How to Gas-weld Aluminum and start off by practicing welding steel. A few questions first: 1. What is the four-digit number of AKDQ [deep draw] steel to use? 2. What line pressures do I use for 19 ga? 3. What size and number of rod should I use?

First of all, practicing on steel is a good way to learn flame control, but practicing on aluminum is the only way to get good at welding aluminum.

1. AKDQ is mild steel is between 1010 and 1020 cold rolled and has been annealed for ease of shaping.
2. If you are using a conventional torch go with 5 psi acetylene / 7 psi oxygen. Or, if you are using a DHC2000 torch (Dillon, Henrob, Cobra) then use 3 psi acetylene / 4 psi oxygen.
3. When gas welding steel you must use "gas welding" rod. We use Harris RG45, the smallest diameter available is 1/16", if smaller were available we would use it.

And last, be sure your parts have a dead tight fit with NO gaps for the best results. Remember, practice makes perfect.

I recently purchased your # TK006 tool kit and I have a few questions. What are the smaller ends of the two hammers best suited for? The one has a pick end. I assume that this is to raise or lower a low or high spot, respectively. How about the hammer that has a small profile but wider (.5") end? Also, does the color of the hammers signify anything?

Red indicates a crown face hammer & blue indicates a flat face hammer. Sykes Pickavant hammers are marked using the same convention.

You are right, the pick hammer is used for bringing up low spots, the "cross pein" can be used similarly to bring up low spots where the shape is suited - say, near an edge. The cross pein is also useful for stretching operations in conjunction with a dolly. The nicely curved tail allows you to swing near a flange or bent edge without crashing.

Both of these "Finishing" hammers are very useful as is, but - like so many tools, we sometimes customize them a bit. Dan says he would leave the pick hammer as is, but he would smooth out the cross pein pointed end a bit to minimize potential marks on the metal. (Grind it a bit so that it has a more rounded shape and then sand or file smooth for a nice finish. It could be polished or left slightly dull, it really doesn't matter.) Dan also comments that since both hammers have virtually the same crown on the one side, he might make one of them even "rounder" using the same method previously. A D.A. sander would work nicely to finish the hammer face.

I'm looking into buying a welder but I can't spend more than about $800. I do body work on cars and motorcycles and I also want to start making my own tanks. I was thinking of buying a used, older TIG, but then I saw the DHC2000 torch, which is right in my price range! I want to be able to weld all types of metal including aluminum. I know you guys have one and I was wondering; Do you think I should save more money to get an AC/DC TIG or would the DHC2000 torch be adequate?

We use the DHC2000 torch in our shop for a variety of components, including aluminum fuel tanks for motorcycles. Usually though, a well rounded shop will have both a gas setup and some type of electric welding setup either MIG or TIG for structural work (e.g. chassis). TIG welding is also excellent for steel bodywork (panel replacement) as well as rust repair. So, in the long run, an electric welding setup is a wise investment.

I am about to make my first hammerform and would like to know what type of glue you recommend using?

We've tried a number of wood glues, and we like Titebond® Original Wood Glue the best. It's inexpensive, readily available and it get's the job done! It provides a strong bond, combined with fast set time. It cleans up easily with water.

I am building a full-metal interactive suit of armor. What tools and equipment would I need to create, shape, and piece together suits of armor?

What a fun and interesting project! Here is a list of tools you will need, at a minimum, for this endeavor:

One note to consider; if you are making a "traditional" (vs. a "robo-cop", more modern style) suit of armor you will need the Combination Rotary Machine for the detail and decoration part of the suit. For the more modern style armor you can omit that machine. Good luck!

In all your videos, your favorite medium seems to be aluminum and most of my projects are steel. Do your stretching and shrinking tips work the same on steel? Do you have a preference for the type of steel you use in 18 or 20 gauge projects. Thanks for your help. ~ Gary Archer, Ontario, Canada

When I am working with steel I use a blocking hammer to do any heavy stretching into a shot bag. Then I go the English wheel for any additional stretching and smoothing. When I need to shrink steel I use a mechanical / manual shrinker like a small Lancaster for edge work. Deep shrinking is done on an Eckold power shrinker.

These would be the same methods to use when working with aluminum; however you would use a bossing mallet or utility mallet instead of the heavier blocking hammer. A lot depends on the thickness of the metal and the capacity of the tooling you are using. When I use steel, I use mostly 19 gauge for my jobs of curved panels. Generally speaking I select 18 gauge for floors and/or inner door structures.

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